WALTER SPELLER
on Italian wine

'An annus horribilis !’ Silvia Altare declared when I asked her last November how the 2022 vintage had played out. Altare took over the running of the La Morra-based estate from her father, Elio, a couple of years ago. Speculations about a change in style normally abound when there is a generational change but about Altare there were none. The transition seems to have gone smoothly. Altare just smirked when I suggested this to her. ‘In August 2022 we thought we would have th