Rescuing the Real Schiava/Vernatsch

Time is running out for Alto Adige's signature variety, which may – just – be rescued in time by a New Generation of producers.

Above, the Gschleier vineyard of over 100 years old,

proof of Schiava's potential magnificence.

I keep obsessing over Vernatsch aka Schiava, the pale, alpine red grape variety known for feather-light wines, but which a new generation, following in the footsteps of old stalwarts, has begun to turn into elegant wines with a much longer shelf life than its reputation would have it. It is the main reason why, for the second time, I had the audacity to leave their Vernatsch samples sent to me for a full year in my cellar before tasting them, just so I could prove my thesis.

And again (see my previous Schiava tasting article) I was not disappointed, because Vernatsch has gone through a seismic stylistic change over the last decade largely due to a young generation cutting their teeth on this most misunderstood of Italian varieties (Lambrusco is a close second, but enjoys huge sales).

This generation may have instituted the stylistic change, but they are now beginning to inspire other producers, including those who in the recent past were so ashamed for Vernatsch that at wine fairs they used to hide it underneath the table and only reluctantly showed it to those who expressly asked for it.

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